Name: “foot wrap” technique
Item: “foot wrap” technique
Author: Bill Bremmer RPT

6 Bill Bremmer RPT (14.06.2011 10:00)

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recall Fred Drasche from Steinway recommending a piece of walnut veneer. In the 1980's, I would perform an operation similar to that seen in the video but would use a small amount of 5 minute epoxy. The theory was that the pin block material was probably deteriorated. If a larger pin or any kind of shimming material were used, the repair may have been effective in the short term but either of these would cause the pin block material to further crack or split.

The epoxy, however would be forced into the deteriorated pin block material upon driving the pin with a hammer and punch. This would effectively repair the pin block. The tuning pin could be driven in very easily. The epoxy acted as a lubricant. After replacing the tuning pin coil and putting tension on the string, I could feel the friction develop.

This kind of repair was always effective but the feel was never normal. The tuning pin would hold, yes, but it always had a jumpy or squeaky feel.

When Cyanoacrylate Glue (CA glue) products became available, I would simply use the medium or thick grade. I would put the spout of the glue bottle in the hole and apply perhaps one milliliter of the product. I would try to be sure that the glue coated the entire hole, not just one side of it. I would also put a small amount of the glue on the tuning pin.

When driving the pin with CA glue, it also would go in easily but I would feel the friction increase as the glue began to cure. This kind of repair has also always been effective and successful. The difference, however has been that the feel is completely normal afterwards; like that of new material.

Maximillyan, I do not know if CA glue would be available in your country or if it is, it may be very expensive. If it is available and affordable, I suggest that you try it when attempting such a repair.

I am familiar with the use of translator programs. One must have at least some knowledge of both languages in order to use them. For example, the word, "pitch" can have three unrelated meanings in English: tone frequency, to throw a baseball or a kind of tar. The translator program cannot distinguish which meaning is intended.

I saw the Piano Technicians Guild Written Exam translated into Spanish by use of such a translator program. The results were often ridiculous and even comical.

For example, one question was, "How much over pull should be used to raise the pitch of a structurally sound piano that is 60 cents flat?"

The erroneous translation read, "What quantity of tar should be used to flatten a structurally noisy piano that is worth only 60 cents?"

My answer to that would be, "The cost of the tar would exceed the value of the piano, therefore it is not worth doing".
_________________________
Bill Bremmer RPT
Madison WI USA
www.billbremmer.com

5 Maximillyan (14.06.2011 09:58)

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Thank you Loren D,for literate translation on english its technique.С уважением,Maximillyan.

4 Loren D (14.06.2011 09:57)

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Translation: shim the loose tuning pin with cardboard.
_________________________
Loren DiGiorgi, piano technician, pianist, performer & composer
MPT (Master Piano Technicians of America)
Certified Dampp-Chaser™ installer
http://www.digiorgipiano.com
http://www.lorendigiorgi.com

3 Maximillyan (14.06.2011 09:56)

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In rare events it is necessary to use the sandpaper. This it is necessary when factor of friction quite is absent. However my method in the other. The Paperboard decays when I rotates and its dust provide friction between pin and wood.

2 daniokeeper (14.06.2011 09:55)

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Hello Maximillyan!

Thank you for the videos.

As for Step 4, I am familiar with making the repair in a similar way, but using sandpaper rather than cardboard. But since using cardboard works for you, I will remember that.

-Joe
_________________________
Joe Gumbosky
Piano Tuning & Repair

1 Emmery (14.06.2011 09:54)

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Loc: Niagara Region, On. Canada

Attempting to read this made me reach for an antacid tablet halfway through the first paragraph. Its most likely that the O.P. used an online translator like Babel Fish to translate a cyrillic based language. Technical writings do not fare well with these translators unfortunately.

The video is more self explanatory of a method (than the posting) I seen used in some former soviet east bloc countries several decades ago. Carboard and paper have high coefficients of friction. Working in tool and die, we often sandwiched paper between thin shims of steel and a magnatized table for surface grinding. It kept the shims in place even though the magnetism would not normally have been strong enough to do so with just steel on steel contact.

I had a lot of respect for the techs in these countries that were working with whatever they could get their hands on in those difficult times. They were somewhat like MacGyver in their methods. I have found pins I removed from pianos with carboard/paper shims are often more rusted than their non shimmed neighbors. My feelings are that paper and carboard are more hygroscopic than wood itself and can make a bad situation worse, eventually. I know a tech here that uses wood shims effectively. I prefer going up a pin size, or two (if the holes cleaned up with a reamer). CA would be my second option. I've rarely had to shim with these two previously mentioned options at my disposal.

I must also add I hate coming across a pin that was wound out with the coil still on it and the tip of the becket scratches and gouges the bluing or plating on it. A vertical scratch on the pins side from yanking the coil off while the tip of the beckets in contact with the pin is no better. Some techs care and some do not.
_________________________
Piano Technician
George Brown College /85
Niagara Region